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The science of glaciers and whales: Alaska’s Inside Passage

Register now for our Alaska cruise in 2025.

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31 July 2025  9 days

Register now at tours@newscientist.com and we will contact you soon with full tour details.

The historic route traversing the spectacular Inside Passage is particularly special. Shaped by the incredible force of gigantic glaciers millions of years ago, Alaska’s Inside Passage stretches 800 kilometres along the Pacific Ocean. Experience calving glaciers, wildlife-filled fjords, stunning National Parks and endless tundras. The abundant wildlife in the region includes sea lions, sea otters, porpoises, orcas and humpback whales.

Travel aboard the small expedition-style ship, Safari Quest, accommodating 22 passengers in 11 cabins. It is the perfect home from which to explore the dramatic wilderness of the Inside Passage and the famous Glacier Bay. Join guided nature hikes ashore, kayak among icebergs and keep watch for whales and bears from the deck. By cruising on a smaller vessel, you can enjoy a more flexible and intimate experience, travelling with like-minded fellow passengers in search of wildlife and natural wonders. Travelling on a small ship also offers the chance to explore hidden inlets and pristine fjords that larger cruise ships simply can’t reach.

Throughout this cruise you will be joined by award-winning freelance science journalist, Lesley Evans Ogden. Lesley has a a PhD in ecology and will offer a series on talks covering topics relating to the ecology and environment in this region and will combine her depth of knowledge with her passion for compelling storytelling. Read her article featured in Knowable Magazine looking at the impact climate change is having on the salmon in Alaska's Glacier Bay.  

Starting in Glacier Bay National Park, you'll be accompanied by a National Park Ranger who will explain the park's geology, glaciology, wildlife and its deep roots in Tlingit culture. Continue via the Tongass National Forest to Kuiu Island, home to a high population of black bears, before cruising through Frederick Sound for a chance to spot humpback whales. Your journey ends with a scenic highlight as you make your way along Endicott Arm to the breathtaking Fords Terror and Dawes Glacier. The itinerary is built with flexibility in mind, allowing plenty of time to make the most of any wildlife encounters that come your way. 

Our cruise to Alaska is suitable for all those with a general interest in glaciology, conservation, nature and marine biology, as well as those wanting to follow in the wake of generations of pioneers, traders and explorers to explore a stunning wilderness area.


DAY 1: JUNEAU

On arrival into Juneau, you will be met at the airport by a representative from our local partner, who will transfer you to your hotel. The rest of the day will be free for you to explore Juneau at your own leisure. 

Located between snow-topped mountains and ice-blue inlets, Juneau offers stunning scenery and great wildlife, including whales, seals, sealions, porpoises, otters, bears and eagles. Lying in the panhandle of south-east Alaska, it became the state's capital city in 1906. First settled at the time of the gold rush, Juneau welcomes with both small-town charm and towering glaciers.

In the evening, meet with Lesley Evans Ogden and the rest of your group for a welcome meeting, followed by dinner at a local restaurant.

DAY 2: JUNEAU AND EMBARKATION

In the morning, there will be free time for you to explore Juneau. In the afternoon, return to your hotel where you will be transferred to the Safari Quest, your home for the next seven nights. Once on board, meet your expedition team with time to settle into your cabin.

Wildlife viewing, exploration and getting off the boat as much as possible are certainly the focus during this cruise, with excursions at least twice daily by foot, skiff or kayak. The trip itinerary will be relatively flexible and dictated by weather and wildlife activity.

This evening, leave the city of Juneau behind as you set sail for the scenic inlets and secluded wilderness of the Inside Passage.

DAY 3: ICY STRAIT

After breakfast, head out to explore the remote bays of Icy Strait. There may be an opportunity to kayak in these sheltered waters, paddling through giant bullwhip kelp that can grow to more than 30 metres long. Perhaps take a skiff excursion to a rocky outcrop where sea lions play, or step ashore for a guided forest hike. 

During skiff rides, on walks and when the ship is repositioning, the onboard expedition team will share facts about the region's marine biology, flora and geology.

Tonight, Safari Quest sails into Glacier Bay National Park with a special early entry permit only available on this itinerary.

DAY 4: GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK

Today, a National Park Ranger will join the ship as you cruise through the spectacular Glacier Bay National Park.

Glacier Bay National Park offers unrivalled scenery of glaciers, mountains, islands and fjords, together with a wealth of wildlife. Orcas, humpback whales and minke whales feed in the channels, while you may see bears along the picturesque shoreline, turning over rocks to find crustaceans. You may also see Dall’s porpoises, while colonies of Steller’s sealions congregate on rocky islets to bask or mate, and thousands of harbour seals breed and nurture their pups.

Cruise past South Marble Island, known for its abundant birdlife including puffins, guillemots and gulls, before continuing to the far end of Tarr Inlet. Here, the ancient Margerie and Grand Pacific glaciers calve huge chunks of ice directly into the water.

Time and weather permitting, visit the sheer-sided Tidal Inlet, where bears can often be seen foraging along the shoreline, or enjoy a short forest hike at Bartlett Cove.

DAY 5: ADMIRALTY ISLAND NATIONAL MONUMENT

Today, explore Admiralty Island National Monument, home to the highest density of brown bears in North America. Wildlife activity abounds on this rugged island in the Inside Passage. Members of the Tlingit Indigenous community call the island Kootznoowoo, meaning “Fortress of the Bear”. The island also has a higher density of bald eagles than all the other US states combined.

Kayak or skiff in and out of the bays and islets, keeping an eye out for Alaskan brown bears and nesting bald eagles.

DAY 6: FREDERICK SOUND

Today, you'll cruise through Frederick Sound, a popular haunt for humpback whales. Surrounded by the majestic snow-covered mountains of the Coast range, which rise to 3000 metres, the glacier-fed waters of Frederick Sound are abundant with krill and herring, making them one of the premier places to observe feeding humpback whales. It's estimated that more than 500 humpback whales migrate to Frederick Sound from Hawaii, visiting to feed on its nutrient and krill-rich waters. Other marine animals that can be seen here include orca, Steller's sealions, Dall’s porpoises and harbour seals.

Witness Alaska's oldest light station, the Five Fingers Lighthouse, and watch out for sea lions around the Brothers Islands.

DAY 7: WINDHAM BAY AND STEPHENS PASSAGE

Your captain will navigate Windham Bay and Stephens Passage.

One of the straightest stretches of the Inside Passage, Stephens Passage is located between Admiralty Island to the west and the mainland and Douglas Island to the east. The passage is generally considered to offer some of the best whale-watching waters in Alaska: a misty spout is a sure sign they’re in the neighborhood. It also holds plentiful populations of Steller sea lions, as well as flocks of gulls and guillemots that clatter aloft as the ship passes. The passage was named by George Vancouver in 1794 after being charted by Joseph Whidbey.

DAY 8: ENDICOTT ARM AND DAWES GLACIER

Surrounded by snow-covered mountains and glacier-carved valleys, take a skiff cruise into one of Alaska's most beautiful corners. Endicott Arm and Fords Terror reveal a spectacular combination of icebergs, waterfalls and the dazzling blue ice of the Dawes glacier as it creeps down from the Coast mountains. With a sharp crack, the white thunder of a calving slice makes a megasplash.

Tonight, the Alaskan wilderness will provide a fitting backdrop to your farewell dinner.

DAY 9: DISEMBARKATION IN JUNEAU

Your crew and new friends wish you heartfelt goodbyes. This morning, transfer to Juneau airport or to your hotel for your onwards travel home.

Register now for our Alaska cruise in 2025.

Register for 2025

Register now for our Alaska cruise in 2025.

Register for 2025

Highlights

  • Seven nights of accomodation aboard the comfortable ship Safari Quest
  • Accompanied by science journalist Lesley Evans Ogden, as well as an onboard team of experts
  • Full day of exploration through Glacier Bay National Park
  • Visit the Admiralty Island National Monument, Windham Bay and Endicott Arm wilderness areas
  • Search for black and brown bears, eagles, sea otters, harbor seals, sea lions and an array of seabirds
  • Humpback whale watching in Icy Strait, Frederick Sound and Chatham Strait
  • Experience the Dawes, Margerie and Grand Pacific glaciers up close
  • Explore the Chichagof and Kuiu islands in Tongass National Forest
  • Kayak, paddle board and skiff remote inlets

Meet the expert

Lesley Evans Ogden

Lesley Evans Ogden

Lesley Evans Ogden is an award-winning freelance science journalist based in Vancouver, Canada. She earned a PhD in ecology and worked as a post-doc before she turned to science journalism. As an alumna of the Banff Centre’s science communications programme, she is a regular contributor to Natural History, New Scientist, Nature and BioScience.

WHAT’S INCLUDED

  • Seven nights aboard the small expedition cruise ship Safari Quest
  • One night of pre-cruise accomodation in Juneau
  • Welcome dinner in Juneau
  • Full board throughout your cruise, including snacks, tea and coffee. Plus, beer, house wine and soft drinks at dinner
  • Captain's welcome and farewell receptions on board your cruise
  • Private talks and informal seminars from Lesley Evans Ogden
  • Talks on a variety of science topics from the onboard expedition team
  • All skiff (small boat) cruising and landing activities led by the expedition team
  • Kayaking and paddle boarding available throughout the cruise
  • Free wifi on board
  • Daily cabin service
  • Arrival and departure airport transfers
  • Embarkation and disembarkation transfers to and from the ship
  • Port surcharges, permits and landing fees

WHAT’S NOT INCLUDED

  • Travel insurance
  • Gratuities for onboard expedition crew
  • International flights
  • Single supplement

Pace and physicality

The emphasis on our Alaska expedition cruise is to get you off the ship as much as possible. Skiff boat safaris, hiking, kayaking and paddle boarding are all available. How much you participate will be at your discretion. The ship is very comfortable and you can enjoy the majestic scenery and abundant wildlife from the ship at your leisure.

To join most excursions, you need to be able to climb down into a skiff boat.

Accommodation

Safari Quest

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Carrying just 22 passengers, the small but perfectly formed Safari Quest offers 11 spacious and comfy cabins. There is a cosy, welcoming lounge and dining room on board. The food is excellent and the enthusiastic crew maintain a relaxed and entertaining mood. Safari Quest can cut into the tiniest nooks that many small vessels can't reach.